Torrey, Utah
General Information
One of Utah's Mighty Five, Capitol Reef is located in south-central Utah and is situated between Bryce and Canyonlands National Parks. I had talked to quite a few people on my trip who described Capitol Reef as a park you could explore in a day, but still their favorite park. Given that information, I was surprised to find this park much quieter than Bryce and Zion, but maybe I had just gotten lucky with the Scenic Drive being closed for construction. There are many different ways to explore Capitol Reef, whether on foot, bike, or horseback or by obtaining a canyoneering or climbing permit. While this may not be a park that is frequented as often or for as long as some of the neighboring national parks, Capitol Reef still experiences increased visitation in the summer months, and the campground is frequently reserved many months in advance.
If you want to camp in Capitol Reef, you have the option to stay at the established Fruita Campground, primitive campgrounds, or in the backcountry. The Fruita Campground offers 71 sites, most of which are suitable for RVs, with a few designated for tents only. While the campground provides dump stations and water tank fill stations, there are no hookups available at any site. Each site is equipped with a picnic table and an above-ground grill or firepit. Restrooms feature flush toilets, but there are no shower facilities, so plan accordingly. The only available showers are located in Torrey and will cost you a few bucks. The two primitive campgrounds are situated along Cathedral Valley Loop Road and Notom-Bullfrog Road. The Cathedral Valley Campground typically requires a 4WD, high-clearance vehicle, whereas the Cedar Mesa Campground is accessible with a two-wheel drive vehicle. Both campgrounds offer amenities like a picnic table, fire pit, and pit toilet, catering to small groups. Prior to your visit to either primitive campground, it's recommended to call ahead and ask about road conditions.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are reservations required?
Only if you plan on camping in the Fruita Campground. The park does not have a reservation system for entry into the park or for any activities. Permits are required for non-hiking activities, but most are free and require simply registering with the park.
How far is Capitol Reef from Moab?
Capitol Reef is about two and a half hours away from Moab, but it is also two and a half away from Bryce Canyon. If you're planning on traveling between Moab and Bryce or Zion, stopping by Capitol Reef will only add one extra hour of drive time.
How many days does Capitol Reef take?
Well, that depends on what kind of capabilities you visit it with. If you can backpack, have canyon and desert experience, and a 4WD, high-clearance vehicle, you can spend a lot of time in the park. If you're a hiker in a sedan, one day will leave you satisfied and two days will leave you content.
What time does Capitol Reef open?
Capitol Reef is open 24 hours a day, but the visitor's center facilities open at 8:00 am in the busy season, and 9:00 am in the winter months.
When should you visit Capitol Reef?
Late spring and early fall are the ideal times to visit Capitol Reef. In the summer months, you are likely to run into hot and dry heat, followed by an afternoon monsoon that could result in flash floods. According to the National Park Service, the majority of the rainfall occurs during the summer months due to monsoon season.
My Experience
Originally, I had no plans to visit Capitol Reef. I had considered it, but my desire to see Forrest Gump Point outweighed my interest in the Reef. Luckily, I had to adjust my schedule and chose to skip out on the additional driving required to get back to Arizona. I stayed at Sand Creek RV Park and ended up in one of their cabins since the cost was the same as reserving an RV spot. I had started my day with the Upper Calf Creek Falls hike in Escalante before heading to Torrey. Of all the times that solo road-tripping sucks, driving through the Grand Staircase was at the top of that list. There were so many jaw-dropping views that had me drifting out of my lane ever so slightly. The entire drive from Boulder to Torrey is steep grades, so it's crucial to know your vehicle's capabilities and how to handle such conditions to avoid excessive brake wear. I suggest keeping an eye out for any scenic turnouts. They aren't well-marked, but they offer fantastic vistas and I regret not stopping more. I will definitely be recommending that you experience driving along Scenic Byway 12.
I arrived in Torrey at around noon, which was perfect timing. While I was soaking my legs at the Lower Calf Creek Falls, I struck up a conversation with a local who mentioned a burger food truck owned by a guy who was on Iron Chef America. The truck typically opened around noon each day and was located along the main road through town. I pulled off onto a side street to find the information about when and where the truck was and then made my way to the food truck. I ordered a classic cheeseburger that was topped with incredibly gooey cheese that may have had some kind of Thousand Island dressing on it, which I really enjoyed. Although they had a limited selection of burger options, they all looked and sounded appetizing, and I wish I had tried something other than a cheeseburger. After devouring the burger, I went to the RV Park, took a shower, changed into pajamas, and relaxed while browsing the internet. A steady rain had picked up and I started dozing off due to the pitter-patter of raindrops on the roof. I ended up taking a pretty solid afternoon nap. This had been my second actual bed on this trip and I think my body recognized that sometimes just taking the time to lay down and relax when being so active is good too.
After waking up, I wanted neither to stay in the cabin nor to go to town for dinner. As I looked for something to do, I stumbled upon Etta Place Cidery, just 700 feet away from where I was staying. Considering my past experiences with alcohol during this trip, walking seemed like a sensible choice. Also, when something is that close and you're in a place that beautiful, why would you drive? The establishment has indoor and outdoor seating areas, and while I had short sleeves and was unprepared for chilly weather, there were blankets available if I wanted to brave the chill. The cozy seating arrangements added to the overall charm of the place. The staff was exceptionally friendly, well-versed in the local area, and down-to-earth. I tried a flight of their various ciders, a signature cocktail, and discovered that a hoppy cider is better than a hoppy beer. This ended up being a great way for me to socialize while on my solo road trip, and I recommend any traveler stop in.
I set off early in the morning to drive a short distance down the road to explore the last destination in Utah on my itinerary, Capitol Reef. I didn't have a specific plan or trails in mind for this park, so I was improvising as I went along. Unlike the other parks, Capitol Reef doesn't have entrance stations, so it's important to stop by the visitor's center to pay any entrance fees. I had intended to visit Chimney Rock for sunset the previous day, but ended up having a drink instead as one does on vacation. So, when I noticed the trailhead marker while driving into the park, I decided to make it my first hike of the day. I was fortunate to secure the last spot at the limited trailhead parking, which is not paved. In my opinion, this hike was fantastic, and I can see why it comes highly recommended by many. With a distance of just over three and a half miles and an elevation gain of 560 feet, it's a relatively moderate hike. The ascent is steep at the beginning of the trail, and I found myself stopping to catch my breath, but going counterclockwise made the rest of the trail downhill. The views along this trail are truly stunning, and since it was still early, the highway passing through the park blended into the landscape rather than disrupting the quiet. I captured some great photos on this trail, but it's important to stay safe, avoid getting too close to edges, and stay on the trail when taking photos. I didn't find any part of the trail boring, and once you get up the incline, it's suitable for those anyone comfortable walking on slightly uneven terrain. On the backside of the hike, the clays take on many colors, adding to the trail's beauty.
After getting back to the trailhead, I made my way to the visitor's center where I picked up park maps and a souvenir. At that time, the scenic drive was closed for improvements. This limited the number of available trails, and my next hike depended on finding a trailhead with parking. Eventually, I parked at Grand Wash, a route leading to Cassidy Arch. Unbeknownst to me, there was a 4WD road that could have been taken to cut my hike in half. I think I could have driven in, but I only saw the road from a distance The Grand Wash trail offered an awesome stroll between canyon walls with minimal elevation changes. It is important to carry water on this trail, especially if you plan on hiking to the arch. The canyon walls offer little shade when the sun is beaming down from overhead. I learned the hard way about the importance of sufficient water, as I had only planned for a 4-mile trek, not 7 miles, and was hungry and thirsty by the time I was done.
I did see some cool spots where you could eat lunch in a large cavern area. If you're just hiking, it's easy to overlook the turnoff for Cassidy Arch at first. It doesn't stand out as you approach it, but once you pass by, the sign will grab your attention. This hike caught me off guard, more than the Chimney Rock hike did. It kicked off with a steep ascent that left me sweaty and breathless, and my legs were starting to get a little tired. After the initial climb, the trail wanders around canyon walls and along the rim until it joins the Frying Pan trail. After this point, you'll be trekking across slickrock and following cairns. Most of the trail was easy to follow, but there were parts where I incorrectly guessed the next cairn location. A handy tip: walk straight from one cairn to the next, don't walk too far from right beside it. It gets pretty obvious when you reach the arch viewport because many people have plopped down for a break. There's lots of room to find a quiet area, so I don't think there's an issue with overcrowding on this trail. Cassidy Arch is one of the few, if not the only, arches within a national park that you can walk on. The route to the top didn't seem very obvious to me, but when I was getting off the arch I noticed chains and footprints suggesting that quite a few people made it to the top of the arch.
On the return trip to the trailhead, it didn't seem that I ran into any more people than I had on the way in. The limited trailhead parking helps with this. It is important to be extra cautious when parking alongside what is technically a highway. Always check for oncoming traffic before crossing the road or opening your car door, and as a driver, be prepared for things to pop up in your way without notice. When I got back to my car, I changed into sandals to allow my feet to breathe, a practice I highly recommend regardless of the hike's difficulty, before continuing eastward towards Colorado. While I had heard much about the Cathedral District, the eastern region of Capitol Reef, most of the region requires a high-clearance off-road vehicle which I did not have. Beyond the Fruita District, the landscape transitions to bentonite hills and towering sandstone formations (cathedrals), which left me in awe. I will eventually come back to explore this area and see the blue topped hills myself. This area of the park has the least stable cellphone connection, so try to let someone know when you're passing through.
Entrance Fee: $20
Campsites: $25 per night
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