My Experience
In order to break up the journey back home, I had planned to stay at the Calf Creek Recreational area to hike the Lower and Upper Calf Creek Falls. The campground near the Lower Falls operates on a first-come-first-served basis, and despite previous luck with these types of campgrounds, it was full. When I drove through looking for a spot, I got the impression that most visitors had been there a few days. The campground had one entrance that doubled as an exit, which meant you couldn't pass comfortably, or at all if you were to run into another vehicle here. In hindsight, it was probably for the best that I couldn't stay there. I decided to return to Escalante to figure out my next steps and ended up at a local "coffee shop" to plan. Once I made it to Escalante Outfitters, the "coffee shop," I enjoyed a coffee on their outdoor patio. It was a super neat spot and if you happened to not have the right clothing, you could get some new gear as well. Which, fair warning, it felt a lot hotter than I expected it to. The place, in addition to the coffee and gear, is a restaurant with a few local beers. Although I didn't have a meal, I did try their flourless chocolate torte, which was quite delicious.
I ended up staying at the Canyons of Escalante RV Park which was pretty convenient because the showers were included and I had access to machines to wash my clothes. The host was super nice and it seemed to be a pretty lively group of people that stay there. My one comment is that there isn't a lot of shade cover so unless you bring the shade, expect to stay inside or get a lot of time in the sun. I wouldn't say there was much of a view when in the RV park, but it's Utah if you step outside and look around you will find something to appreciate. This place was within walking distance of Escalante Outfitters and when I went back to get a beer, which you actually can't do without getting food, I learned a very important lesson. As someone who doesn't often drink except for an occasional glass after work, I expected a little 6% cider that I picked to be just right. Well, turns out that when you're active and sweating all day at an elevation that you aren't used to when you may or may not be dehydrated, a little alcohol goes a very long way. I was actually very glad that I didn't drive because I was quite tipsy.
As far as some of the local to-do's, there is the Escalante Petrified Forest State Park, the Calf Creek areas, and a couple of wilderness areas that could be explored. While I didn't make it to the state park, it was very commonly recommended as a cool place to stop by anyone I had met who was also traveling through the area. The park visitor center features petrified wood and dinosaur bones, and if you're up for a light to strenuous walk, you can see the petrified wood as it fell millions of years ago. If you plan further in advance than I did, you can also stay at the campground instead of in town. There's boating, fishing, and swimming in the reservoir if you wish which is accessible from the campground. If you're just trying to break up your drive, this would be a great place to stop by and stretch your legs.
The Lower Calf Creek Falls hike is a nice half-day excursion if you have a little more time. Located about 30 minutes down the road from Escalante. It's far enough outside of town, and down in a canyon, that there is no cell service once you leave the parking lot. The hike is 6 miles round trip but it's fairly flat and uneventful with a couple of ups and downs spread across a small steady uphill. Early in the morning this hike is quite shaded but it doesn't take long before the sun starts beaming down on you. Mainly, as long as it takes for the sun to come up from behind the cliffs. Once that occurs, the shade is spaced out just far enough that it gets a little uncomfortable with the heat.
Unfortunately, the shade is not a welcome relief if you're anything like me and mosquitoes love you. When I started this hike in the late morning, any time I slowed down or stopped in the shade a swarm of mosquitos found me. By about the third shady spot, I had started sprinting through the shade waving my trekking poles because I was not interested in coming out of the hike covered in bug bites. But, if I can run a 5k I can fast walk three miles to get to a beautiful end point. And it was. The falls were a fantastic view and I was very thankful to have chosen to do the hike, even though I tend to stray from popular hikes. The falls are a 120-foot cascade of water which is such a cool thing to see when you recognize that you are in a place that doesn't typically have waterfalls. Around the falls is a pool that you can take a dip into, a sandy area that makes it feel like a secluded beach, a small stream with such cool and clear water that was perfect for soaking my feet in, and plenty of shaded places to sit. It was at this point while digging for snacks, that I realized I had maybe 10 sips of water left for the three-mile, 80-degree hike back. I had incorrectly assumed the amount of water left in my reservoir and like a fool, did not choose to check before leaving on a hike where they warn to make sure you have enough water. So, regardless of what you think remember, always ALWAYS check your water and never carry less than a liter, and you really shouldn't carry less than a liter for each hour in hot and sunny conditions. When I chose to head back, I was slightly concerned about trying to space out my sips. I had never been in a situation where I didn't think I had enough water. I made it back fine and once I got to the trailhead, I headed to the left, towards the campground, to soak my legs in the stream. This area of the stream is deep enough that I was able to get my knees in and another fellow who had the same idea as me was up to his hips. I will always recommend at least trying a cold shock when you come across ice-cold water and when you can get past the painful part of being in cold water, the numbing properties feel incredible. I chose not to do a cold shock and regretted it deeply. They were prepping for upgrades when I got there, so future visitors will have access to improved facilities.
The Upper Falls are a little further up the road from the Lower and have fewer facilities. The parking lot is not paved, nor is the entrance, but I wouldn't say you need a high-clearance or four-wheel drive vehicle. Some of the parking spots seemed to have more compacted sand than others, so I would say if you aren't sure about your vehicle's capabilities in sand, don't risk it. If you're even more unsure, there are some parking areas out on the highway. Just be sure to park in areas that show signs of previous vehicle use, and make sure you're far enough outside of the striping. I did this option and it added a half-mile to the whole trip. The actual hike itself is just over two miles but it starts with a steep descent down some slick rock and then continues in full sun exposure for the remainder. I don't think I did the actual falls portion of the hike, somehow the path down was not active on my AllTrails map when I was on it. I didn't find the pools above the waterfall to be super exciting, but the fellow I had met at the end of the Lower Falls had said there was an area to go cliff jumping. If I had a friend with me or wasn't so worried about lack of water (again) or sun exposure, I might have tried a little harder or looked around a little longer to find the way down to the falls. If you're looking for more solitude, this would be the hike. I didn't see many people on the way down, but I did pass a few groups on the way out. It was still way fewer than at the Lower Falls, but enough that you felt comfortable if you needed assistance. I did have cell service for the majority of the hike (AT&T) as well. The hike up the slickrock was an absolute butt burner and I would not recommend it if it was a little bit wet or if you did not have good traction. Overall, if you're planning to drive through or mapping out a road trip, this would be a great area to stop and add to your itinerary.
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