Taos, New Mexico
My Experience
Before I got into peak bagging, there was Wheeler Peak, the eighth-highest state summit in the United States. This was the first one I tackled on a slight whim. My mom called me a few weeks before and asked if I wanted to join them in New Mexico. Having no plans over Labor Day weekend, I figured saying yes would at least give me something to do. I made the 6-hour drive from Lubbock, Texas to Taos, New Mexico on Friday, being sure to get caught in a construction zone on one of the longest stretches of nothingness along the route. To be honest, this is not the way to spend the day before an almost 3000-foot elevation gain hike that parks you 13,161 feet above sea level.
We chose to stay in the town of Taos as opposed to up in the Ski Valley which comes with its pros and cons. It is about a 40-minute drive from the town to the closest parking lot, Williams Lake Trail - Upper Parking Lot. Like many popular trails, the parking lot will fill up quickly. It isn't big by any means and when we got there around 6:00 am, there were at least ten vehicles already in the lot. There is a vault restroom and as always, be prepared with your own toilet paper and hand sanitizer, especially if you choose to arrive later in the day.
From the trailhead, you hike up past the Phoenix Grill until you hit the split, where you will stay to the left to follow the Williams Trail. The trail follows along a stream, meandering the valley while slowly gaining in elevation. It is a heavily wooded area, so enjoy the scents and shade (and bathroom privacy) while you're low in elevation. After about 1.7 miles, you reach a short (<0.25 mile) turn-off to Williams Lake. After this point, the trail turns east and starts climbing through the forest. It isn't very long before you start to emerge from the tree line. This indicates that you have reached the 11,000-foot treeline and are almost halfway up the mountain in mileage, but not in elevation. You can expect short grass beside the trail for the remainder of the hike up to the ridge, minus a scree crossing every now and then. In several locations, there are nice big boulders to sit on right next to the trail. I will often warn of trying to get off the summit (and preferably before the treeline) no later than 1:00 pm to 2:00 pm due to afternoon storms and the lightning risk, but one unique thing I ran into on this hike was that there was a cloudbank that decided to form below the saddle, and luckily below us, so that some fellow hikers were trekking through a fine mist.
There's something to be said about summit hikes in that you will never know when you've got to the top until you're forced to turn around. Much similar to Humphrey's Peak, the summit never seemed to be over the next hill and the higher we got once on the ridge, the more the wind was attempting to blow us off! As a resident of West Texas at the time, I was used to walking sideways trying to stay somewhat upright, and I estimated these winds to be around 30mph which I later found was pretty common up on a peak. As a high point, there was a summit marker to take a picture with, a canon of all things. I do believe we managed to summit in three hours, taking only two for the return trip down. Once we reached the last half mile back to the car, it had started to rain and we were thankful that we had started so early.
We passed many a family and pet on the way down, so this trail does appear to be doable for all ages. It is a very well-maintained trail and even those afraid of heights could likely make it up to the ridgeline before worrying. While I don't consider this a super strenuous hike, it is still long at 8.4 miles with 2,972 feet of elevation gain. You don't need a training plan to do this hike, but you do need to be at least in shape or it won't be enjoyable.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where is Wheeler Peak?
Wheeler Peak is located in the northeast Carson National Forest area of New Mexico, and about 40 minutes northeast of Taos.
When is the best time to hike Wheeler Peak?
Hiking Wheeler Peak is best completed in June through October. I did the hike in early September, and I don't think I could have asked for better weather. It's best to not attempt during winter unless you are an experienced winter hiker.
How tall is Wheeler Peak?
Wheeler Peak stands at an impressive 13,161 feet and is the highest point in New Mexico.
How to hike Wheeler Peak?
The route that I described is the Williams Lake Trail. It is a very casual hike not requiring extensive preparation. If you're looking for something longer or more challenging, Bull of the Woods is an alternative.
How long does it take to hike Wheeler Peak?
Time spent hiking will likely take 4-6 hours to summit and come back down. This will depend on multiple factors and assumes that the elevation is not negatively affecting you.
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